Broad Peak Expedition –Broad peak expedition information
The local name of Broad peak is Faichan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8,047m/26,401ft. It is called Broad peak because of its breadth at the top.In 1957, an Austrian expedition came to Pakistan to climb this peak. It was led by Marcus Schmuck. Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, a climber, Kurt Diemberger, an Austrian climber and photographer and a legendary mountaineer, and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known postwar Austrian climbers. It began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain. Consequently it climbed a snow gully and camped at 5,791m/19,000ft. While climbing, it made the best use of ropes which were fixed by the 1954 German expedition. On the 29th May, all members of the expedition left camp-3 for an assault on the summit. A storm forced them to return to the base camp. It was, however, on the 9th June, 1957 that Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl climbed the peak without using oxygen and high altitude porters.
Broad Peak Expedition Itinerary
Day 01: Apex Nepal Adventure ,Nepal airport representative will pick and transfer to hotel . Pakistan Mt. Nanga parbat expedition briefing with officially arrangements .overnight at Islamabad.
Day 02: Briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Meeting with LO (Liaison Officer).
Day 03: Fly to Skardu (1 hr) or drive to Chilas.
Day 04: Day free at Skardu or drive Chilas - Skardu (8-10 hrs).
Day 05: Free Day at Skardu for final preparation.
Day 06: Skardu - Askoli (6-7 hrs).
Day 07: Trek to Jhula near Domardo River. (8-9 hours)
Day 08: Trek to Paiyu provides good views of Baltoro South, Cathedral Towers and triangle of K2 at far view (5-7 hrs).
Day 09: Day free at Paiyu for acclimatization (3600 m).
Day 10: Trek to Urdukus: To Khuburtze (8-9 hrs): A gradual climb up Baltoro Glacier on the southern edge. The walk mostly along the crest of lateral moraine, with stunning views of Paiyu Peak, Chorichi, Uli Biaho, Trango Towers and so on. A good camp site at 4200 m.
Day 11: Goro II: The first hour walk is across difficult side crevasses, however the way is smoother and easy in the center. Continue opposite of Yermanendo Glacier for 3-4 hrs to the camp site at 4500 meters pitched in the center of the glacier.
Day 12: Concordia: 5-6 hours slightly easy walk, with spectacular views and gigantic mountain panorama, including Mustagh Tower, GB IV, Mitre Peak and the mighty K2. Camp at Concordia at 4700 m.
Day 13: 2-3 hours trek to Broad Peak base camp.
Day 14-39: Climb Broad Peak. No. of days depends on weather, fitness, and experience of the climbers.
Day 40-46: Return to Askole or Hushe and drive to Skardu. In case of trek via Gondogoro number of trekking days can be lesser.
Day 47: Fly to Islamabad or drive to Chilas.
Day 48: Day free at Islamabad or drive to Islamabad.
Day 49: De-briefing at the ministry of tourism.
Day 50: Apex Nepal Adventure, Nepal airport representative will transfer to airport for onward journey.
60 Days Mt. K2 Expedition
50 Days Gasherbrum I Expedition
50 Days Nanga Parbat Expedition
50 Days Broad Peak Expedition
50 Days Gasherbrum II Expedition
